Assynt & Coigach 2011 – Walking Through Time

Suilven

Jennifer put down her fancy software analysis testing tool (sorry, hammer) and decided she should check out the far north-west of Scotland with a visit to the rather special mountain paradise that is Assynt & Coigach. The area immediately to the north of the bespoke fishing village/foreign tourist magnet of Ullapool boasts a unique combination of colour, light and scenery that comes with a generous array of ⅔ scale mountains. These model hills give a great return for the relatively modest amount of energy required to climb them. As an added bonus – and partly due to pesky weather re-thinks – we ventured a little further afield and also enjoyed good days on Ben Hope and mighty An Teallach.

The Coigach Hills

Ben More Coigach

First up, the usually reliable opening-day hill of Ben More Coigach (743m; big hill of Coigach) couldn’t shake off its cloak of orographic cloud and we traversed its impressive sandstone wall enshrouded in mist with only occasional – and tantalising – glimpses of the surrounding hills and the sea at our feet. A noisy, though welcome, golden plover and a young family of ptarmigan were the only warm-blooded creatures we saw all day, apart from each other – although at times the keen northerly wind threatened to make that a contentious point!

Cul Mor From Stac Pollaidh

Similar conditions on Day 2 gave us an almost identical experience on Cul Mor (849m; big back), the highest of the Coigach hills, but on this occasion, one with few views, no shadows and little reason to linger on the high tops.

Ben Hope

Ben Hope

Come Day 3 and we started to turn things around. A planned attempt on Suilven was soon dismissed as cloud and rain made driving, let alone walking, difficult! Jennifer had already decided that Scotland’s most northerly Munro deserved her close attention and so we duly ventured north to the end of the known world and a 3hr drive brought us to the foot of this fine peak. It never takes long to climb Ben Hope. A good path, no discernible walk-in and a summit that sits just over 3Km from the start point ensure you can normally complete the ascent in under 2hrs. Some begin (and were doing so today) from Alltnacaillich farm further up the glen. Although longer, this route gives an enjoyable traverse along the crest of the amphibolite sill of Leitir Mhuiseil that leads to the mountain’s southern ridge. Both routes then converge and climb steadily above the mountain’s steep western flanks until the small flat summit is reached: Ben Hope (927m; hill of the bay). Remember to seek out the trig point though as it is easy to mistake the small pile of stones that mark the end of the climbing for the summit. It’s one hell of a distance to travel to make that mistake (and I’d have never heard the end of it…)!

Ben Hope - The Ascent Route

As if the mountain day wasn’t memorable enough, the long journey home was greatly enhanced by the sight of a snipe bursting from the verge-side followed a few miles later by some close formation flying by a great spotted woodpecker! And just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, we had that amazing first sight of Suilven from Strath Oykel – a view that never palls.

Stac Pollaidh

Stac Pollaidh

This diminutive, perky and pert little peak (try saying that after your 2nd single malt) never ceases to provide a half day’s entertainment. At last, we got our first cloudless summit and a bit of sun to warm the rock as we scrambled along, over and around the sandstone pinnacles that form the rapidly eroding summit crest of this model mountain. Jennifer proved that steady concentration and a few deep breaths were all that was needed to tackle the most difficult problems. She also demonstrated a commendable lack of hesitation in nimbly negotiating the final ‘difficult step’ that leads to the summit cairn at the western end of the kilometre-long summit ridge.

Jennifer in Her (New) Element!

We had the summit to ourselves and did it justice by remaining there for a good half-hour mesmerised by the amazing panoramic view this gem of a hill provides: Stac Pollaidh (612m; steep rock at the pool). We returned the same way (you don’t have much choice) and took time to visit the far eastern end of the summit ridge which is slightly less eroded than the remainder of the crest. Finally, we begrudgingly descended around the back of the hill thereby ensuring we covered just about all the angles of this fine peak. As always, this was a fun day!

Suilven

Suilven From Elphin

After a long absence, Suilven finally lifted her petticoats for me again and reminded me why this masterpiece of mountain architecture will always repay the long drive and walk-in (not to mention walk-out)! We started from close by Glencanisp Lodge and followed the excellent path/track past Suileag bothy (an hour’s walking, and unseen from the path), to the small wooden bridge (1½ hrs) and thence across country to the base of the climb up the Bealach Mor (2½ hs). Patience and a steady pace will bring you to each landmark in turn and there is no point in rushing – save some energy not only for the climb, but also to enjoy Suilven's piece de resistance: the mountain's sublime summit ridge.

Suilven's Summit Ridge

This priceless – and only – weakness in the slopes of this battleship of a hill is the key to the climb. A clear, but steep, path (which won’t suit every software-testing analysist) eventually leads you to where you’ve been yearning to get for the past 3 hrs – the summit ridge of the finest peak in Assynt and a permanent resident of Scotland’s Top Ten: Suilven (the pillar). On this occasion, and with timing, choreography and stagecraft that I take full credit for, our arrival on the ridge was heralded by a majestic flypast by a golden eagle so close you could hear the airflow hissing over this sublime flier’s primary wing feathers. You couldn’t have scripted it!

Suilven From Glencanisp Lodge

A short walk along the ridge leads you to the mountain’s highest point, Caisteal Liath (731m; grey castle). As with Stac Pollaidh, this is a really special place and a spot to linger as your eyes gaze out over the ‘knockan and lochan’ landscape of the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve towards the blue shining waters of the Minch and the islands of the Outer Hebrides.

Suilven From Stac Pollaidh

Closer to home, the inselberg peaks of Assynt & Coigach stand their ground whilst back along the summit crest, Suilven’s eastern summits send an impressive wedge skywards and complete a spectacular picture show. Make sure you always save Suilven for a clear day; otherwise, little of what I have described will make sense. But as for that eagle, well I’m afraid that’s reserved for Hillways gold card holders!

An Teallach

Corrag Bhuidhe

Best day, best mountain: it was as simple as that! By common consent, this mighty castellated cathedral of Torridonian sandstone with quartzite trimmings is one of the 2 greatest mainland peaks in the UK and holds within its ramparts one of the 2 greatest corries in the land! As usual, we started from Corrie Hallie and walked down the road for 10 mins to the beginning of the path. As usual, it was raining. As usual, Jennifer was loving it!

Sail Liath Across Toll an Lochain

Half way up the climb and well into the imposing corrie of Glas Tholl, the weather cleared and stayed fair for the remainder of the day. A passing walker in running shoes and lycra shorts threatened to upset Jennifer’s equilibrium but she soon recovered when she realised she was stuck with me for the rest of the day! Three hours from the car we stood on top of the mountain’s highest point: Bidean a’ Ghlas Thuill (1062m; pinnacle of the grey-green hollow). The view from the summit trig point across the yawning depths of Toll an Lochain to Sgurr Fiona must be the single most impressive view from any UK mountain top and never fails to take your breath away (unless you do it on a cloudy day of course)! We paused to take it all in. I recommend you do likewise!

Sgurr Fiona From Bidean a’ Ghlas Thuill

It never seems to take very long to descend and re-ascend the connecting ridge to An Teallach’s 2nd Munro: Sgurr Fiona (1060m; white peak). This is probably due to the magnificence of the surroundings as much as the relatively short distance (1 km). Again, this is a magical spot from where countless mountains, islands and lochs can be viewed – not to mention the blue waters of both the Moray Firth to the east and The Minch to the west.

The View From Sgurr Fiona

Following a leisurely lunch, we (she) decided we would dispense with the traverse of the jaw-dropping leaning spire of Lord Berkeley’s Seat and the sandstone pinnacles of Corrag Bhuidhe. We opted instead for the narrow path that skirts the south-western slopes of the mountain. The path is no walk in the park though and care should be exercised – the drop may concentrate the mind of those not well-acquainted with airy sandstone terraces.

The Fisherfield Six From Sgurr Fiona

Eventually the path re-joined the ridgeline and we continued up and over Stob Cadha Gobhlach and Sail Liath before descending the tricky quartzite scree path that led us to Lochan na Bradhan. Everything started to happen quickly now and we were soon intercepting the track back to Corrie Hallie and the waiting car. Such an amazing day justified a truly special dining celebration and so it proved to be. Fish, chips and mushy peas never tasted better………!

Thanks to Jennifer for being such an enthusiastic companion on some of my favourite hills. It's off to the Pyrenees next week with a party of 12 - and a slightly different group dynamic! I love my job!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Skye 2011 - A Romp Around the Cuillin!

All Smiles - Only 11 To Go!

This past week I have been helping out the good doctor (http://www.darrenmcaulay.com) guiding clients on the Black Cuillin of Skye. Whilst the weather was significantly better than on my previous trip last month, a relentless succession of depressions, fronts and troughs conspired to ensure a flexible approach to the daily programme!

Loch Coruisk

By the week’s end, all 12 Cuillin Munros had been climbed by at least some of the group including a full house on the west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean and the Inaccessible Pinnacle!

Classic Skye Scrambling

Throughout the week, Fergus has been regaling us with his full repertoire of...err...jokes, Duncan has been reeling off his various club memberships and demonstrating the virtues of a healthy lifestyle, Lynn has been chatting away (and occasionally head-butting the gabbro) and Julie has been trying to forget she’s an overworked vet!

Am Basteir

Subjects discussed included the relative merits of adding a third lane to the M8; whether boiled potatoes taste better unpeeled; just how many apples can one man eat and what colour of a mountain guide’s trousers most appeals to a female veterinary surgeon!

Sgurr nan Gillean From Am Basteir

Throughout the week, Darren was his usual cool, efficient self, tying knots and stuff and pretending he wasn’t interested in the louseworts. As for myself, I trailed dutifully behind, did what I was told, removed bits of climbing gear and, like the rest of the party, listened to Fergus……..

Me & the Doc!

Here are some pictorial highlights of the week showing what we got up (and down) to!

Lynn Starts Up the In Pinn

Half-Way Up The In Pinn

Julie Contemplating the Colour of Mountain Guides' Trousers...

Duncan Abseils Off the In Pinn

Climbing the Difficult Step on Am Basteir

Evening Rainbow On Loch Harport

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Far North

Quinag & Loch Assynt From Conival

Having been well and truly flushed out of Skye, I travelled north up the Ullapool road to join Pete and Jackie for some hills of an altogether different hue! The main aim of the week were the Fisherfield Six – a remote and inconvenient clutch of 6 Munros far from roads, settlements and most significantly of all as it turned out, bridges! There a number of other mountains in the far north to be climbed first though……

A Study in Grey Skies, Windswept Summit & Gore-tex!

Ben Klibreck

What a squelchathon this mountain proved to be! Every time I climb it, I vow never to return. Fate (and Pete) brought me back for another look – just in case I was being unduly pessimistic. I wasn’t! The water in the River Vagastie was high so there was to be no convenient crossing at the usual start point close to Spot Height 176. Instead, we parked a mile further up the glen and crossed the burn at the footbridge near Vagastie. Whilst this gave us a dry crossing of the river, it also introduced an additional 4 miles of soft, squelchy bog to trudge across through water-logged ground, over flooded burns and around lochs before we gained the higher ground.

Ben Klibreck

The short sharp ascent of A'Chioch seemed almost welcome after the tiring bog-plod. This took us up on to the good path (the first, and only, one of the day!) that follows the ridge that leads quickly to the fine summit cone of the mountain: Ben Klibreck (962m; hill of the speckled cliff). A small group of ptarmigan provided a colourful diversion whilst the plaintive wail of a golden plover seemed an appropriate soundtrack to the empty lands that surround this isolated Munro. Our relief at reaching the summit was tempered by the knowledge that we would need to retreat the same way all the way back to the car. And that's just what we did!

Man of Action - Pete Conquers Mother Nature!

I'm sorry to sound so negative about Klibreck. It has a fine airy ridge, a graceful summit cone and an isolated position that makes it conspicuous for many miles around thereby demanding the attention of hillwalkers. If it just wasn't surrounded by so much wetness....

Ben More Assynt & Conival

Conival From Ben More Assynt

These 2 big mountains are the only Munros in Assynt and are distinguished by their pale quartzite colour and peri-glacial boulderfield that litters their 2 summits and the intervening ridge. Start from the obvious car park at Inchnadamph and locate the not-so-obvious start to the walk by walking along the A837 for 300 yds and turning right once across the bridge over the River Traligill. A track leads to Glenbain cottage before becoming a path that leads up the limestone cleft of Gleann Dubh (black glen).

Ben More Assynt From Conival

Quite a few folk (not all of them quite sure of where they were going!) were taking advantage of the drier weather as we climbed steadily up the boggy path to the bealach that gives access to Conival’s north ridge. Here the boulder-hopping starts although the path is still good and expansive views open out in all directions. Westwards, there are great views of the distinctive monoliths of Assynt & Coigach although it is the closer quartzite-covered hills either side of Gleann Dubh that catch the eye. Eastwards, Ben More Assynt is now clearly in view, together with the intervening ridge and expansive views of the wastelands of Sutherland open out. You can even see dear old Ben Klibreck! A big cairn marks the summit of Conival (987m; adjoining hill).

The Hills of Coigach From Ben More Assynt

It can take up to an hour to traverse the ridge across to Ben More Assynt, particularly when wet. The slippery quartzite boulders are here because these 2 high tops were left exposed 40m above the top of the glaciers in the last ice age. This left the quartzite exposed to the elements which shattered the rock into boulders that the ice left behind. Lower summits in the area have been largely swept clean by the glaciers that covered them. There are a few intervening ups and downs before you finally secure your 2nd summit of the day – it’s the northerly of the 2 rockpiles that adorn this highest summit for miles around: Ben More Assynt (998m; big hill of Assynt).

Conival From Gleann Dubh

If you really can't face returning back over Conival, then it's probably safer cutting the corner off to the north, into Coire a'Mhadaidh (corrie of the foxes), rather than the steep, slippery southern slopes surrounding the Dubh Loch Mor (big black loch). We did the former and it definitely saved time; be careful to pick the right line through the scree though!

The Fisherfield Si

x

Strath na Sealga

High rainfall, a huge water catchment area and a distinct lack of bridges conspired to thwart our plans to tackle the Fisherfield 6. Instead, we cycled in from Corrie Hallie to the north by way of a reconnaissance in preparation for a return later in the summer. We left the bikes soon after the (very) rough track starts to descend into Strath na Sealga and walked down and along the fast flowing river eyeing likely crossing points and route options.

Beinn Dearg Mor

The fording points I’d used before were OK but we really only found one place where it was safe to cross – and then only by removing boots, socks and trousers! Ironically, it turned out to be a beautiful, warm and sunny day unspoilt by midges and with only the occasional sandpiper for company. We determined to return another time, probably with a tent, with the intention of completing all 6 in one day as I have done previously. It would have been an excellent day for An Teallach whose majestic sandstone ramparts adorned the view for much of the day.

A Bridge Too Far (No Bridge Actually)!

Glen Strathfarrar

As compensation for Pete for having missed out on Fisherfield, I suggested we drive around to beautiful Strathfarrar, west of Inverness, where 4 Munros form the northern line of a whole series of big mountains that surround the ‘great glens’ of Strathfarrar, Cannich and Affric. Mountain days here tend to be long and memorable and should be a highlight of any Munroist’s experience.

Carn nan Gobhar & Sgurr a' Choire Ghlais

Great spotted woodpeckers darted in front of the car as we drove up the glen (note the restricted opening times of the locked gate that gives access to the glen). Other sources recommend doing the route from east-to-west but I have always preferred west-to-east. The initial climb is much easier up a good stalkers’ path and the mountains get lower a the day progresses - no contest!

The Strathfarrar Ridge From Sgurr a' Choire Ghlais

We duly traversed the 4 Munros and 2 Tops linked, for the most part, by a classic ridge that twists and turns above a series of steep-sided north-facing corries. Everyone else seemed to have opted for the ‘book route’ and passed us going the other way. For us, a fine stalkers’ path carried us almost effortlessly and pretty swiftly up to Sgurr Fuar-thuill (1049m; peak of the cold hollow) from where easy ridge walking led to the highest and most impressive peak of the range, Sgurr a’ Choire Ghlais (1083m; peak of the grey-green corrie). A steep descent leads to the boulder-strewn hump of Carn nan Gobhar (992m; hill of the goats) from where easy slopes lead to a sharp little defile and equally easy slopes on the other side lead directly to the undistinguished summit of Sgurr na Ruaidhe (993m; peak of the redness).

How Many Summit Cairns Does One Hill Need?

A squelchy descent over grassy slopes deposited us on the rough path that leads out of Coire Mhuillidh and back down to the road where Jackie was waiting conveniently for us. We really didn’t need to trek the 6Km back up the tarmac to the start point - no matter how pretty Glen Strathfarrar undoubtedly is!

Can I Have a Day Off Now Please...?