About Me

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Hello! My name is Keith Gault and I've been tramping the hills of the UK and further afield for over 40 years now. This blog records some recent hill days undertaken either on my own, with friends, or with clients under my guided hillwalking Company: Hillways (www.hillways.co.uk). I hope you enjoy my diary; please feel free to comment on any of the walks. I will respond to any direct questions.

Saturday 30 May 2009

Torridon

Liathach
We’re always being told (well, I’m always telling people) that May is the driest and sunniest month in the NW Highlands. Oh Yeah? Well I know an Ironman, a veterinary surgeon, and a supermum who might question that previously held presumption. It all came good in the end as you will see but along the way our week in Torridon exposed us to the full range of UK 4-season mountain weather. Any prospective undergraduate thinking of writing a thesis on the subject might like to book early for next year! Still, such an eclectic mix of backgrounds ensured we all now know a lot more than we did about the malting process in making beer, what sensible precautions to take before peering into a cow’s rear end, what Easter is really all about and what colour bricks make up the Scottish Highlands! A cosy self-catering bungalow in Kinlochewe provided the base for this springtime splash & scramble up some of the best mountains in Scotland.

Slioch
Slioch (980m)

An ideal hill to start with: an hour’s level walking to get the legs moving takes you to a delightful spot where the path crosses the fast-flowing Fhasaigh burn complete with stunning waterfall and deep pools - just as well there’s a bridge here! The path turns right here and climbs steadily up Gleann Bianasdail and up into Slioch’s central corrie which provides the only weakness in ‘The Spear’s’ summit ramparts. The path gets a big boggy in the base of the corrie but soon returns to a good quality hill path as it climbs up on to the summit plateau. There are 2 summits: the first has an OS trig point on it, but the highest point of the mountain lies a further 200m beyond from where a vast panorama opens up in all directions – allegedly! All we could see today was each other! Given the absence of grand views to the north into the Fisherfield forest, we dispensed with the option of traversing across to Sgurr an Tuill Bhàin. Instead, we retraced our steps downward pausing only for a quick lunch by the lochans. We could have shortened the day by a couple of miles but Supermum wouldn’t let us take a car so we had to walk ALL the way from the cottage and ALL the way back! What are hillwalking holidays coming to with these sort of people around! It was just as well we had Gault’s famous fish pie to look forward to!

Beinn Damh

Beinn Damh (903m)

On the way to climb Beinn Alligin it became clear we were in for another cloudy day so would miss all the stunning cliff scenery and much of the fun of traversing the Horns of Alligin. So we elected instead to climb a fine Corbett: Beinn Damh, a long 5Km ridge whose summit just happens to lie at the far end of it! An old stalkers path leads up through trees and rhododendron bushes from the recently re-developed Torridon Inn complex and climbs high above a deep gorge before opening out on to the open hillside. Supermum, having unequivocally proved that size does matter after all, had decided to remove the world’s biggest camera from her rucksack from the previous day and tore off up the mountain with the rest of us in her wake! After this, we smuggled the camera into the bottom of her rucksack in order to slow her down! The much-repaired path leads a good way up the corrie of Toll Ban towards the main ridge of the mountain but turns a bit messy and braided near the skyline. Once on the bealach however, it’s good walking underfoot before the tiresome quartzite boulders of the summit tops is encountered. These remain until the eventual summit is reached after 2 intervening tops. Again, a summit panorama was denied to us by the cloud so we retraced our steps – mind the navigation on the way back to ensure you take the north-west ridge (not the northern one) off the 868m top. Half-way down a clearance offered welcome views of Liathach’s southern terraces.

Beinn Alligin

Beinn Alligin (922m/986m)

At last we had our day in the sun! Well, it was bright and clear anyway with just the odd heavy shower to keep the waterproofs from drying out completely. A car park at the foot of Coire Mhic Nobuill between Beinn Alligin and Liathach gives access to a good path which leads directly towards and up into Coir nan Laogh. This convenient corrie leads almost directly to the first Munro of the day: Tom na Gruagaich (922m) whose northern and eastern cliffs fall vertically directly from the summit trig point. From here you can see the whole of Beinn Alligin laid out before you, a stunning vista which is reason enough to keep this mountain for a clear day! Our ascent was enlivened by the curious sight of ‘Map Case Mike’, a bespectacled, seriously academic type-looking walker who insisted on hanging a bloody great map case around his neck (why do people do that???) whilst toiling up the mountain in windy conditions! We took bets on whether he’d get airborne or garrotte himself first! Occasional snow showers accompanied us down and up to Alligin’s highest point: Sgurr Mhor (986m), whose summit cone is rent by the Eag Dhubh – a dramatic, deep cleft in the mountain which creeps up on you unannounced. We descended steeply and then enjoyed an hour’s fun scrambling over the impressive looking, but straightforward Horns of Alligin: 3 eroded sandstone towers/ridges where anyone can play at being a rock climber.

The Horns of Alligin

At one point this gallant leader had to run ahead and rescue a damsel in distress who had got herself stuck on a rock ledge whilst her bloke went off to inspect the view! Men - Pah! Then it was steeply down beside a white-water burn in pleasant late afternoon sunlight and a very pleasant return to the car. Do save this ‘Jewel of Torridon’ for a clear and preferably sunny day and follow this clockwise route. That way you have the horns to look forward to after the main summits and you enjoy a pleasant walk-out (or run) into the setting sun!

The Applecross Hills

Applecross

A return to low cloud encouraged a wee bit of sightseeing and as Supermum’s previous hard line approach to walking every possible footstep had softened (Merlot is such a powerful relaxant), we decided to drive to Applecross up over the switchbacks of the Bealach na Bà and maybe take in one of the 2 Corbetts that sit comfortably within a short stroll of the summit of that pass. A brief visit to the location for Monty Hall’s recent BBC series of life on a croft and an agreeable lunch at the Applecross Inn (only chips of the week I’ll have you know) preceded a wee amble over to Sgurr a’ Chaorachain (792m), most of it in cloud, naturally! We spent much of the return journey listening to Ironman – newly elected President of the Ford Focus Admiration Society - extolling the virtues of the Focus (one of which he owns) over the VW Golf (one of which he clearly doesn’t)! I ask you!

Beinn Eighe

Beinn Eighe (993m/1010m)

Whilst my deft matching of appropriate mountains to fit the daily weather conditions had helped save the more stunning peaks for the better days, we were now running out of choices. Only 2 days left and only 2 big mountains left to do! Consequently, it was bite the bullet time and we were forced to admit that today we would have to clamber up and along Beinn Eighe’s twisting 10Km ridge in pretty desperate conditions! Sure enough, we had this huge mountain to ourselves. An excellent path leads up from Glen Torridon up into Coire an Laoigh before turning into a steep shaley scrabble up on to the skyline. After climbing up to the trig point we made a small 200m diversion to capture the first of the mountain’s 2 Munros, Spidean Coire nan Clach (993m). It’s amazing to think that this summit was only accorded full Munro status in the 1997 Munro revision, particularly in light of today’s struggle up through the wind and rain. The rest of the day was spent mainly head down in and out of showers and in and in of cloud. I just knew the others were so grateful for my really interesting, informative and stimulating observations on subjects as diverse as solifluction levels, fucoid beds and pipe rock! Oh and there was a very occasional reference to the Pyrenees from Julie who may just have been there! In the middle of all this we stumbled upon the mountain’s highest point: Ruadh-stac Môr (1010m), had some lunch, and back-tracked to the trig point above Coire an Laoigh. Here we decided a prompt return to the glen, the car and Emma’s Thai chicken curry was preferable (but only slightly, of course) to a further 3hr tromp through the rain over Beinn Eighe’s eastern ridges! I think the party were grateful for my helpful insights into butterworts and louseworts on the way down; they just forgot to say so..... One worrying development concerning our otherwise very clever vet was her inclination to start unilaterally adding Munros to some mountains. On subsequent drives down Glen Torridon, she convinced herself that a subsidiary top of Beinn Eighe was higher than the Munro! As if the week wasn’t long enough!

Liathach

Liathach (1055m/1023m)

We always save the best until last with Hillways and this week it all came good in the end. Mighty Liathach, Scotland’s finest mainland mountain, stunning from all directions, rather than An Teallach’s asymmetric splendour (the grass slopes of ‘The Forge’s western slopes are no match for The Grey One’s cavernous northern corries). Liathach offers no comforting walk-in from the road, it’s all steeply uphill from the outset. The distances – if not the height – are short though and we made the skyline ridge in 90 minutes. From here it is always worth investing a little time and effort to visit the eastern-most top of Liathach which gives a fantastic view along the mountain as well as a wide panorama of Beinn Eighe (useful if you’ve spent the previous day on that mountain in cloud)! The next few hours were spent in an entertaining and scenically stunning traverse of one of Scotland’s finest ridges, the first part of which culminates in the highest point on the mountain: Spidean Choire Leith (1055m).

Holding Tight on Am Fasarinen!

Lunch here in warm sunshine and under blue skies is one of life’s real pleasures. After this first Munro it was down the awkward quartzite boulders of the summit cone to the beginning of an hour’s fun traversing the eroded sandstone pinnacles of Am Fasarinen. At this point, ‘Nigel’ happened upon us declaring himself lost and in need of direction. So our party of 5 briefly became 6 as we snaked our way over, along and around a succession of rock scrambles with yawning gaps below our feet and dear old Nigel bringing up the rear!

Ignoring the Drop!

Eventually, the fun ended and we were deposited on a wide, grassy section of the ridge before the final climb of the day – and week - up on to Mullach an Rathain (1023m). Here we bade a tearful farewell to Nigel and began our final descent back down into Glen Torridon. A lovely 30min stroll up the glen in 25 degree heat and with the sun on our backs brought our week to a fitting and memorable end. I’d even run out of things to say about the lousewort!

Happy Days!

A Rucksack-full of Memories

Even the best of times must come to an end and this wild, windy, but occasionally sun-kissed, week in Torridon was no exception. Wonderful company must fragment and go it’s own way and a rucksack-full of memories is all we can truly retain. We duly left early on Saturday morning to reclaim our own lives. Kev went home to fix his partner’s exploding car, Julie went home to prepare for a short walk in the Pennine Alps and Emma went home to try (unsuccessfully) to convince her children that mountain climbing was cool! For me, it was a return to Skye for a date with the Good Doctor and a Norwegian Princess! More anon.......

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Tuesday 19 May 2009

Knoydart

The Approach From Mallaig


One day, The Professor, the Teacher and Superman gathered at Mallaig harbour to go Munro-bagging in Knoydart! I was leading 3 of Darren’s clients from http://www.hebrideanpathways.co.uk/ on a 4-day walkathon over the 3 Munros on this near-deserted peninsula of quintessential Scottish Highlands. The weather was on the good side of great and ensured clear views from all 3 summits and suntans all-round! We were staying in Torrie Shieling bunkhouse near Inverie, the only settlement on a peninsula that used to be home to several hundreds of people before sheep, deer and autocratic landlords conspired to drive them from their homes and away to the coast and then across the ocean! Logistics is the key to a successful Knoydart trip so the leader forgetting his towel and, more importantly, the spaghetti, made for an inauspicous start. Thanfully, clients Peter, Ray and Chris - and, unusually, Darren - were very kind and didn’t really go on about it very much........! Anyway, my delicious Bolognese sauce doesn’t require any pasta accompaniment, so there!



Meall Buidhe - and that Memorial!


A morning ferry from Mallaig on Day 1 ensured time was available to walk up the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial (a previous landowner’s disproportionate memorial to his family) and up Glean Meadail to climb Meall Buidhe (946m). From here there are good views to the east over the Rough Bounds of Knoydart and north across Choire Odhair to a tantalisingly close (but not THAT close) Luinne Bheinn, a second Munro that can be combined with Meall Buidhe to make a satisfying 2-Munro day. Today, however, a strong wind and travel fatigue combined to encourage us to descend Meall Buidhe’s long western ridge that leads in the general direction of our bunkhouse – a significant factor in today’s decision-making process! So it was back down into Gleann Meadail and along the Barrisdale track and past the Brockett Memorial, for some delicious Bolognese sauce! Pasta is so over-rated don’t you think?

Ladhar Bheinn


Day 2 was reserved for mighty Ladhar Bheinn (1020m) – pronounced Larven - a big mountain with more than its fair share of stunning rock architecture, impressive ridges and cavernous corries. There are no short cuts from Inverie so you have to work for your summit! Choose the right day though and you will be rewarded with spectacular views from the most westerly Munro on the Scottish mainland. In particular, the views north across Loch Hourn to Arnisdale and Beinn Sgritheall and down to Barrisdale in the noth-east emphasise Ladhar Bheinn’s splendid isolation. After my ceaseless attempts to get everyone interested in mountain flowers, I was greatly heartened when I thought I detected a nanosecond of excitement when Superman discovered an orchid! It didn’t last! Our approach gave us a bird’s eye view of the mountain’s pre-eminent feature: Coire Dhorrcail, a huge steep-sided corrie shaped by earth movements and ice into a stunning, silent ampitheatre. For a mountain with such stunning approach climbs, Ladhar Bheinn has a curious summit – a tent-shaped ridge complete with 3 summit markers (a bit like Beinn a’Ghlo – see April): 2 cairns and a half-destroyed OS trig point! The high point is the central pimple. All of this comes as some surprise after the ups and downs of the outlying ridges, but its very pleasant to wander along this level 500m of ridge and your departure should not be rushed (saving for, perhaps, the onset of hypothermia)!


Summit Ridge of Ladhar Bheinn


We descended the west ridge towards An Diollaid and peeled off down to Folach where a spot of rain tried to dampen our spirits. But it needn’t have bothered – the 7 kms walk out along a forest track was sufficient! The Teacher helped us pass the time with a sort of mobile pub quiz with subjects ranging from US presidents to Top of the Pops! The Professor was very kind and let me win! As it turned out, rain gave way to a beautiful sunny evening and venison casserole at the Old Forge with a glass of Merlot seemed an appropriate signing-off for a big mountain day - 9½ hrs!

Luinne Bheinn



The final hill day saw us stride manfully once more up the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial and all the way up to Mam Barrisdale before actually getting on to our mountain and achieving our third and final Knoydart Munro: Luinne Bheinn (939m). Again, warm sunshine adorned the summit and spectacular views in every direction capped a rewarding climb. We resisted the dubious temptation to re-take Meall Buidhe on the way home and instead, retraced our steps (exactly), our tired legs slowly consuming the long miles back down the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial.............



Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Thursday 14 May 2009

Sunshine on Skye!

Cuillin Ridge
Last week I again helped out Darren with a party of Scotland’s finest youngsters on a couple of days climbing two of the easier peaks on the Cuillin Ridge of Skye. Perfect weather provided a magical backdrop to the climbs and afforded great views all along the ridge as well as to distant Ben Nevis in the south-east and the Outer Hebrides out to sea.

Day 1 saw us departing from the Glen Brittle youth hostel and wandering up past deep pools and waterfalls into Coire a’ Ghreadaidh. Half-way up, the grass gives way to good old Cuillin gabbro rock and the last part of the route is up a scree-filled gulley to An Dorus (the door) – a distinct notch on the main ridge which provides relatively easy access on to the skyline. The highlight for us today was the sight of a golden eagle right above us; for some of the party, it was their first such sighting! A left turn at the top up a tricky (for some) rock step opens the way to a short scramble along the ridge to the summit of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh (918m). The return route was modified slightly to avoid the rock step. We intercepted the scree gulley a little way below An Dorus and returned to a Glen Brittle bathed in hot sunshine under cloudless skies – Skye as you must experience it at least once in your life (although you may have to try quite a few times before succeeding)!

Am Basteir

Day 2 started from the Sligachan Hotel and we took the well-worn, but good quality path up towards the base of Sgurr nan Gillean’s Pinnacle Ridge before threading our way across Coire Bhasteir right below the imposing chisel-shaped rock peak of Am Basteir and its detached offspring, the Basteir Tooth. Once again, what should we see soaring above us but one of those golden eagles - and for some of the party it was their second such sighting! It was then just a short traverse across the odd soft snow patch to our summit of the day, the Cuillin’s easiest Munro: Bruach na Frithe (958m). From here we could again see along the length and breadth of the main ridge whilst that newly-familiar golden sun just kept on shining! Our descent took us down into Fionn Choire before following the bubbling waters of the Allt Dearg Mor back to ‘the Slig’.


Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir From Bruach na Frithe

If you want to try your hand at the UK’s premier mountain chain and you have little experience of climbing and scrambling, treat the adventure (because that is what it will be) will a deal of respect. Research the Cuillin fully and gain as much understanding as you can of the complexities, difficulties and technical problems involved in traversing these enigmatic rock pinnacles. Unless you are very experienced, employ a local guide and get yourself very fit . You should be entirely comfortable with exposed ridges and rock ledges (not to mention route-finding prowess) to tackle the peaks separately and you will need rock climbing skills and experience in order to conquer Sgurr Dearg’s Inaccessable Pinnacle and some of the intervening steps along the Ridge.

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Saturday 9 May 2009

The Pentland Hills


Looking South-East From Allermuir Hill

Having waited 30-odd years to set foot in these rounded dumplings of grass and heather which carry the Southern Uplands all the way to Edinburgh’s doorstep, I’ve now spent quite a few days wandering over them. Whilst they lend themselves to a variety of half-day circular walks from any direction, it is worth considering at least once, tackling all 13 of the north-eastern most hills in a single day. This ring of shapely hills form an elongated horseshoe encircling Glencorse Reservoir.

Carnethy Hill

My preferred start point is the car park at Bonaly on the southern outskirts of Edinburgh where a track leads up past an old reservoir and out on to the open hill. The route can be followed either clockwise or anti-clockwise and can be curtailed at almost any point by descdending to Glencorse Reservoir and retracing the path/track back to Bonaly.

Logan Burn

From Bonaly, I recommend going anti-clockwise thus taking the furthest – and highest - hills early and hopefully ending up with good views of Edinburgh in the evening sunlight! This route takes in the minor humps of Harbour Hill (421m) and Bell’s Hill (406m) before climbing over the dark heather hump of Black Hill (501m). A sharp descent to the Logan Burn leads to a good lunch spot before the climb up to the bealach between East and West Kip. The latter appears as a sharp cone from many aspects and serves as a useful navigation marker for the early part of the route.

The Distinctive Cone of West Kip

From West Kip (551m) which marks the furthest point from Bonaly, an excellent path follows the ridge north-eastwards over East Kip (534m), South Black Hill (563m), Scald Law (579m), Carnethy Hill (573m) and Turnhouse Hill (505m) before descending into the softer and greener landscape of Glencorse. You then pick your way around various path junctions before climbing out of the glen past the Army rifle range and on up to Castlelaw Hill (488m), keeping to the right side of the boundary fence if the red flags are flying (and even if they’re not, I would suggest)!


Turnhouse Hill From Castlelaw

From Castlelaw, a track leads down and over a conspicuous cattle grid before climbing sharply up to Allermuir Hill (493m) which suddenly brings Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth into view. From here, a diversion is made eastwards above the Hillend artificial ski slope to Caerketton Hill (c490m) the very last bump before Edinburgh. You then retrace your steps back over Allermuir and cross Capelaw Hill (454m) before descending back down to Bonaly.

Tackling all of these hills in a single day is straightforward for fit hillwalkers with 8 hrs to spare. Whilst some will want to spend longer savouring parts of the walk and will choose to split it up into separate days, the complete round is a very satisfying achievement. It should be contemplated at least once by those who tramp these picturesque hills frequently. For non-locals, who may only get one chance to sample the Pentlands, this day will give the complete package and an instant understanding of what they have to offer!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Thursday 7 May 2009

Tinto Hill

Tinto From the South

Tinto is the largest and most conspicuous prominence in the upper Clde valley and is the highest hill a motorist on the M74 will see close up after crossing the border at Gretna and before entering the Highlands. The name Tinto derives from the red felsite rocks of which much of the hill is composed.

The most obvious start is the car park at Fallburn on the A73 from where a well-graded path climbs easily around the flank of Totherin Hill before crossing the upper reaches of Maurice’s Cleuch and on up to the prominent cairn that sits atop a big pile of stones. From the summit (707m), there are good views in every direction with the Pentland Hills a line of distant bumps 26 miles away to the north-east. The summit is criss-crossed with sheep fences but otherwise the ground is clear of obstacles and the well-cropped heath is a joy to walk on. Today, the only hazard was the strong gusty wind which whipped the map from my pocket and carried it at some speed in the general direction of the North Sea! I returned the same way down the path which was neither wet nor muddy and saw not a soul on the hill. A lone meadow pipit and the musical call of a curlew were my only companions on this blustery day!

Approaching the Summit From the North

My quick saunter took just 90 minutes up and down, but a family group could comfortably stretch it out to an enjoyable half day, particularly if the outlying hills of Scaut Hill (586m) and Lochlyock Hill (529m) are included. These 2 hills combine with Tinto to make an entertaining east-west ridge walk provided that you can arrange transport at both ends.

So next time you’re flogging up the M74 towards more exotic peaks, why not pull over for a couple of hours and take a pleasant walk up this wee hill with a view. You might even find my map!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm